Sunday, January 27, 2013

Quinoa: Good, Evil or Relatively Complicated?

The following article from the Gaurdian presents a potential problem that is not uncommon when an agricultural commodity becomes Internationally traded.





 "Can vegans stomach the unpalatable truth about quinoa?," thunders the headline of a recent Guardian piece. Hard to say, but reality check: It isn't just vegans who enjoy quinoa. Like many occasional meat eaters I know, I've been eating it for years. Quinoa is also big among gluten-intolerant omnivores. So quinoa's truth—unpalatable or not—isn't just for its vegan fans to bear.
So what is going on with this long-time staple of the Andes and newly emerged favorite of health-minded US eaters?
First, the good. Quinoa is the grain-like seed of a plant in the goosefoot family (other members include spinach, chard, and the wonderful edible weed lambs quarters), and its appeal is immense. Twenty years ago, NASA researchers sung its praises as potential astronaut chow, mainly for its superior nutrient density. No less an authority than the UN's Food and Agriculture Organization hails it as "the only plant food that contains all the essential amino acids, trace elements and vitamins and contains no gluten." The FAO is almost breathlessly enthusiastic about quinoa—it has declared 2013 the International Year of Quinoa and even runs a Facebook fan page for it.
And quinoa has generally been a success for the people who grow it. Unlike other southern-hemisphere commodities prized in the global north, like coffee and cocoa, quinoa, for the most part, isn't grown on big plantations owned by a powerful elite. A 2003 Rodale article describes its cultural place in the Andean highlands, an area that encompasses parts of Bolivia, Peru, and Ecuador:
Quinoa (pronounced keen-wá), a seed grain, has been cultivated in the Andean region for over 7,000 years and was considered sacred by the Inca Empire. The crop was relegated to status of animal feed by Spanish colonists, perhaps because of its religious significance and, later, shouldered almost completely out of production by cereals such as barley and wheat and other crops such as potatoes and corn.
Colonial agriculture never really worked very well in the highlands, despite the introduction of agrichemicals. "Pesticide and fertilizer use in Ecuador ... increased dramatically over the years," Rodale reports, "leading to depleted soil and a rise in associated health problems." But the new technologies failed to bring prosperity—"the farmers' yields were low, their return was almost nonexistent, and their children were suffering from malnutrition."
But then, in the 1990s, a variety of projects linking Andean smallholder farmers to do-gooder US importers began to crop up to re-establish traditional quinoa production for export markets. Today, by all accounts, the crop remains a financial success for Andean smallholders. In another recent piece—not the vegan-baiting one—The Guardian reported the price farmers get for their quinoa crop has tripled since 2006. "The crop has become a lifeline for the people of Bolivia's Oruro and Potosi regions, among the poorest in what is one of South America's poorest nations," the newspaper reported.
So what's the "unpalatable truth" that's causing all the handwringing? Escalating prices, while boosting farmers' incomes, are also helping drive down quinoa consumption in the Andes—including among the very farmers who grow it. Quinoa growers have "westernized their diets because they have more profits and more income," a Bolivian agronomist involved in the quinoa trade told The Guardian. "Ten years ago they had only an Andean diet in front of them. They had no choice. But now they do and they want rice, noodles, candies, Coke, they want everything!"
The economics are simple: "As the price has risen quinoa is consumed less and less in Bolivia. It's worth more to them [the producers] to sell it or trade it for pasta and rice. As a result, they're not eating it any more." In other words, farmers are starting to see quinoa as a product that's too valuable to eat—they can use the proceeds from selling to buy cheaper, but less nutrient-dense, staples like white rice. There's also a status issue—quinoa was once a subsistence product, and when people pull out of subsistence mode, there's a tendency to switch to higher-status foods, even if they're less healthy.
In urban areas, the situation is varied—The Guardian found quinoa to be ubiquitous in the Bolivia's largest city, La Paz, "where quinoa-based products from pizza crusts and hamburgers to canapes and breakfast cereals are displayed, Bolivia's growing middle class appear to be the principal consumers." But in the Peruvian capital, Lima, quinoa is emerging as a luxury product—it sells at a higher per-pound price than chicken, and for four times as much as rice, the paper reports.
Then there are land and environmental issues. As demand for quinoa surges, farmers are scrambling for new land to cultivate to take advantage of higher prices. The push is squeezing out older forms of sustainable agriculture, and putting serious pressure on soil fertility, as Time reported in this 2012 piece:
Traditionally, quinoa fields covered 10% of this fragile ecosystem, llamas grazed on the rest. Now, llamas are being sold to make room for crops, provoking a soil crisis since the cameloid's guano is the undisputed best fertilizer for maintaining and restoring quinoa fields. (Other options like sheep poop appear to encourage pests.)
So can people like me, who prefer to avoid foods that are environmentally and socially destructive, eat it with a clear conscience? Not entirely. In a short period of time, quinoa has gone from a local staple to a global commodity. "When you transform a food into a commodity, there's inevitable breakdown in social relations and high environmental cost," as Tanya Kerssen, an analyst for Oakland-based Food First told Time last year.
But that doesn't mean we should stop eating quinoa; it just means we shouldn't eat quinoa without thinking it through. The Andean region is now governed by progressive, equality-minded politicians like Bolivian president Evo Morales—himself a former quinoa grower now serving as Special Ambassador to the FAO for the International Year of Quinoa. In Bolivia, the government is buying quinoa and "incorporating the plant into a packet of foods supplied to thousands of pregnant and nursing women each month," The New York Times reports. And in Peru, the government is placing it in public-school breakfasts, The Guardian adds. Such programs can help ensure that non-wealthy Andeans aren't priced out of the market for this nutrient-dense regional foodstuff. (Of course, another option would be for the region's governments to just accept quinoa as a luxury good for the rich and focus on cheaper staples like rice and beans for the poor—but no one seems ready to embrace this option.)
While the Andes region will always be known as the birthplace of quinoa production, it needn't be the only place that produces quinoa. The FAO points out that it's an extraordinarily diverse crop, with 3,000 varieties that thrive in a variety of climates. The organization calls it "crop with high potential to contribute to food security in various Regions worldwide."
In other words, Andean farmers could focus on growing it for themselves and for the region's teeming cities, and farmers in other regions could begin growing it for their surrounding markets. Already, quinoa is being grown successfully in the Colorado Rockies, and farmers in the Pacific Northwest are testing it out, too, NPR reports. According to the FAO, it's also "currently being cultivated in several countries in Europe and Asia with good yields." By adding supply, these initiatives could push the price of quinoa down to a level that's still profitable to Andean farmers but affordable to regional consumers. Globally, it's not hard to imagine a future in which quinoa pays farmers in multiple growing areas a decent return on their labor while remaining affordable for consumers of all income levels.
On the other hand, a global expansion of quinoa production could also cause its price to crash—as happened to coffee in the late 1990s after Vietnam charged into coffee farming, causing a global glut. If a quinoa glut drove prices low enough, Andean farmers' investments in land and processing infrastructure would be wiped out.
Ugh. Like every other globally traded commodity foodstuff, quinoa is devilishly complicated and prone to tragedy. For now, I'll keep eating it in moderation, but I won't take it for granted. Or stop trying to learn more about it—and neither should any of it eaters, vegan or not. Meanwhile, I'm wondering what unpalatable truths might be lurking within chia seeds.

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Jaclyn Barbato said...

I find it so amusing the way the media will word things to gain attention. "Can vegans stomach the unpalatable truth about quinoa?" Were the vegans told lies?? No, the fact of the matter is we are a blissfully unaware people. There's good and bad to everything, quinoa is no exception. Those people that exercise ordinary logic certainly can stomach the truth, and can also find ways to eat quinoa that are more 'environmentally friendly' (such as purchasing locally when available). Furthermore, at the root of the problems with quinoa it is necessary for change. If farmers began to rotate crops, or grow different types of crops (as they should be to preserve biodiversity) and instead were paid to maintain such biodiversity, this would not be such a problem.

Jeffrey Prizzia said...

I find this crop quinoa to be quite interesting among society. Quinoa seems to be a great crop that can help many people. It has a lot of nutrients in it and with that said I feel it should be spread more through out the world. Although it is high priced, the option to buy it locally would help the environment and support the local economy. Possibly there is a way for people to grow it in there backyards under the growing requirements so they can avoid having to pay high prices. Like Jacklyn said rotating crops is a great way to help the bio life that is in the soil. It will continue to put nutrients back into the soil. Quinoa can be good and bad depending on the person and the way he or she is looking at it.

Jessica Y. Sanchez said...

Money has been said to be the root of all evil and that seems to be the case here. Like a lot of things, once a crop, idea, or good, is exploited, it seems to be worthless in its entirety. Quinoa started off as an environmentally sound product. It didn’t overtake a large amount of land and was great for nutrition. Now, it is viewed as a way of showing status. In one area only the rich can afford it and in another it is sold off for a more western diet. Affluence and worrying about what others are doing has caused a lot of Earth’s environmental problems. Everything is about status; what you wear, what you drive, what you eat, and where you eat. People need to take a step back, worry about themselves individually and what they can do for our Environment.

Jessica Alba said...

Quinoa seems to be a potentially very profitable crop, and furthermore it's healthy for you, which is a rare find today. Most Americans shy away from anything too healthy but quinoa is picking up gusto not only in the US, but all over the world. I think this is due in large part to its easiness and cheapness to grow outside of the Andes. However, despite this I'm nervous about the spread of this grain. Introducing it to so many environments makes it easy to access, but also cheapens the value of the quinoa. this means less of a profit for the farmers in the Andes because those living else where can purchase more locally. This is a double edged sword, because of course buying local reduces your carbon footprint and is better for the environment. At the same time, growing quinoa outside of its natural habitat could be dangerous to the local environment all on its own, because it would be introducing a foreign species to a new area. These invasive species tend to be destructive because of their lack of natural predators. I think there is much to be considered before continuing the spread of quinoa.

Nikita Iyengar said...

Everything on our planet is becoming industrialized and about making profits. It has even come down to taking agriculture, which originally started to feed the local community what was able to grow naturally, and near, to sending it halfway across the world to be consumed. Quinoa has now become a product that the people in its very own country don’t even eat just because they can make more money by selling it to other countries. Not only does this disturb the people in the local environment, it is increasing the amount of trucks and planes and so on that transport the food from one part of the world to the other, which adds on to environmental pollution. People are so worried about mass-producing everything when they could just be improving the quality of life in their own country by allowing the local farmers to produce Quinoa and sell it in the communities to the locals.

James Ward said...

I thought the part mentioning food security was a point I would've liked to learn more about. This crop due to its resilient nature and high nutritional value may be able to solve hunger issues across the planet. However, the economic issue developing in the Andes could prove the opposite. The market is vicious and if the value of this crop (which is climbing rapidly) suddenly drops, then many will go hungry.

Mary Hekker said...

Funny enough, I read this post just before I was to go and make myself dinner. On the menu for the night- a beet and quinoa salad. Reading this post is quite an eye opener as I had only thought of the health benefits and what the quinoa was costing me. Never had it occurred to me to think beyond that. Hearing the sentence "farmers are starting to see quinoa as a product that's too valuable to eat..." was very profound to me. It's as if incorporating quinoa into one's diet in a non-western society is a way of showing financial status. As a newbie to this field of study, I am very eager to learn more about these sort of global environmental and economical issues.

Alexsys Grishaber said...

With everything that comes in life, there is a good side and a bad side that come along with anything. With these different sides, it often becomes difficult for people to decide between the right thing. Quinoa is a victim to this crime because it seems too have both sides. The thing that would come out of this product is the way it can help our environment. Local buyers would become interested in quinoa and purchase more of this product, increasing the value and adding more money to the system. The bad thing with quinoa is that it is expensive to obtain. The more business that can be put into quinoa could really help the world once achieved. I think if it can help people and our environment than why not invest into, the money could easily be put back.

Bradley Malave said...

To be honest, before reading this article I had no idea what quinoa was. I found it interesting that
it was thought as astronaut food because of it's nutrient density. It's not just vegetarians that like this particular grain. meat lovers also take part in it. I found it interesting that this crop has actually become a lifeline food for the people of Bolivia. If I were a farmer, I would grow this crop and if I wasn't a farmer, I'd still grow it. It's a great way to
make money. Now that the people have a little more money, they are able to afford western products and take on their diet. I think that it's so unnecessary for people of different countries to buy American products because it's really expensive even for Americans. It was interesting to find out that quinoa became so valuable that it was used as a high currency to buy other food products. It has become a luxury and it's strictly business for farmers to raise the price of quinoa so that they can profit the most from it.

Laura Sorrentino said...

It truly is unfortunate that the developed nations have built a society based on status and as a result ruined many aspects of the poorer countries lifestyle. Our nation and others like it have now realized that artificial and preserved food is bad for our health, even though we are the ultimate producers of it. Now, our appetite for healthy food has driven the value of it up enormously and since we are of the richest countries, we can afford it. Quinoa is a perfect example, being one of the most nutritious grains. This grain which used to be the affordable primary source of nutrition for poorer countries is now too expensive for those countries and valued as a luxury item. As a result, they trade and/or purchase cheaper and less nutritious grains (rice, pasta) and even artificial junk food all because we choose to eat healthier now. It's sad, we take their healthy food and dump our cheap unhealthy food on them and it is all a direct result of what the power of money can do.

Christie Homberg said...

"Like every other globally traded commodity foodstuff, quinoa is devilishly complicated and prone to tragedy". After reading this post, I can't help but think about several other products nature gives us, and how we as a society seem to consistently take them for granted. It's really sad to think that this grain that is so dietarily and nutritionally beneficial is starting to be used as a bartering chip for processed foods. Thinking of Mondays lesson, I think about the process of trade, and how the transportation of goods as well as the manufacturing of goods to be traded would impact the environment. The end result of trading goods may be worth while to the farmers trading the crop, but at what cost to the environment?

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Unknown said...

I am glad that Quinoa is being grown all over the world because it is a healthy addition to any diet. As the article said, this could lead to a crash in the price of the grain but not if farmers sell it locally. If the demand for Quinoa grown in the Andes goes down then they wont sell as many llamas and they will preserve the land. Aso, they will then keep more grain for themselves and for the surrounding community. The main issue this article covers has happened before and will happen again. It gives the example of coffee but once the demand for a product goes up the economy in a specific region will change. This change does not have to be for the worse if the supplier uses the money wisely. To answer the question in the title, I would say the situation of Quinoa is relatively complicated.

Kay Mahoney said...

As a vegetarian, I have always enjoyed having quinoa as a part of my diet. However, I did not realize the harmful socioeconomic and environmental effects that it has caused due to globalized commodification. After reading this article, I do not feel 'right' purchasing and consuming quinoa; in this sense I think that education plays an important role in our influence on the world around us. Further, I feel as though this article is yet another example of the many things wrong with globalization. I believe it is important for communities to closely identify with their land; the regions in which quinoa has always been a staple crop have lost this sense of identity due to our ever-growing desires across the globe. Our pressure on these regions to export something that once held such value within their social, spiritual and cultural lives just doesn't seem correct. If we find that quinoa crops can flourish in climates closer to home, I would once again consider it as a part of my diet. Until then, I feel as though I should identify more with the crops of my region and allow other parts of the world to do the same.

Chelsey Perman said...

Being a Quinoa eater myself, I was surprised to see how the grain which was once considered a steeple item in ones household, has been turned into a luxury item that is becoming much more difficult for people to get their hands on. It is upsetting to see how a food that is given to human beings by nature is being taken advantage of. Now that Quinoa has become more popular, and more people are becoming vegetarians, farmers are taking advantage of this in order to make the most profit off of it. Knowing that our greediness is taking away a food item from another country makes me view Quinoa in a negative way.

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Pete Saxon lost more than a coach when Terry Hoeppner died yesterday morning. He lost a friend."That's what makes it so hard," said Saxon, a Jonathan Alder grad and offensive linemen under Hoeppner at Indiana University. "He was very personable; he loved each one of us. So many coaches you feel distant from, but he was a friend, not just some guy yelling what to do in practice."After 18 months battling brain tumors, including two surgeries, Hoeppner, 59, died in Bloomington (Ind.) Hospital. He had been on medical leave for the past four months, but Saxon said it still was a shock."His wife (Jane) addressed the team last Friday, and she told us he was fighting it, but he was confident he would come back," he said. "If you knew coach Hep, you